In this video Green Plumbing will show you how to set and install a toilet in just 9 simple steps. Plumbing parts in this video may differ from what is available in your area. Different toilets may vary slightly in installation.
Turn off the water main if needed. The valve for this is usually in the basement, utility, or laundry room and may be close to your water heater. If you do not have a basement, you may have to go into your crawlspace to access this valve. After this, open one or two faucets, especially on the lowest level if possible, to lessen the water pressure currently in the lines.
Cut the waterline & crimp the valve. You may have a little water come out of the pipe, but it shouldn’t be much since we decreased the water in the line in step 1. You will need the pex crimp-ring to be about 1/8th an inch from the end. Now you’re ready to crimp. You may use stainless steel cinch rings also.
Set the wax ring on the closet collar/flange and install closet bolts as shown in the video.
Set the toilet. Set the toilet over the closet bolts set in the flange from step 3. Adjust the toilet bowl to where you want it.
Next up is the closet collar (bolts) at the bottom of the toilet bowl. Make sure to put the plastic washers on first. Many of them say “this side up”. This allows the cap to snap on. This washer helps prevent the porcelain from cracking. Then place the brass washers on next. Place the nut’s beveled side (ferrule) down if applicable, this helps ensure the washer is centered. Seat the bowl & tighten the toilet bolts. Now you can you use a nut driver or wrench to tighten it down. Use a grinder or hack saw (be careful not to scratch the toilet) to cut the extra length above the nut so that the cap can fit over it.
Setting the tank: Place the rubber washers around the tank bolts and insert them through the tank. Attach the flush valve gasket. Push the flush valve gasket over the flush valve opening, underneath the tank. Place the tank onto the toilet bowl. Now tighten the plastic nuts onto the bolts going through the tank and bowl. Tighten until the tank is firm. Be careful not to over tighten. This can cause the tank to crack. Then you’ll have to buy a new tank. The toilet I like to use allows me to purchase tank and bowl separately.
Prep & install the new water supply line. Place the nut up through the pipe and screw it onto the end underneath the tank (usually on the lefthand side). Bend the waterline carefully to line it up with the valve you set in STEP 2 of the first video. Mark the pipe where it meets the valve. Be sure not to cut too short. You can use a flexible supply line for easier installation. Now use the tubing cutters to gently cut the pipe on your mark. Put the nut onto the end of the pipe then put the ferrule on next. For safety, you can use pipe dope to lightly coat the ferrule. Now you can tighten both ends onto the toilet and valve.
Turn the water & new valve on. There is a water level line in most tanks. You can adjust the fill valve to the desired level. Different fill valves have different adjusting methods. Read the instructions that came with your toilet to do this. It’s fairly simple. Now you can simply put your tank lid on.
Fasten on the new toilet seat. Not all toilet seats will have the easy clean feature for quick removal. Make sure you tighten the seat real firm so that it doesn’t loosen over time.
Thanks for watching Green Plumbing’s toilet installation tutorial. You’re finished! Enjoy your new toilet knowing you set it the proper way.
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